Long-Term Living

Just about everything you need to know for living in Odessa, Ukraine for more than 6 months.

Ukrainian’s View of Westerners

Ukrainians, generally, are a very friendly and hospitable people. In Kyiv, being the business and political capitol, foreigners are common – and typically receive no special status, except as may be related to work. Outside of Kyiv, almost all Ukrainians feel it is a special occasion to know a foreigner, especially an American.

Politically, Eastern Ukraine and the Crimea tend to lean toward Russia and may not be as friendly to westerners – though likely they are still mostly friendly. Western and Central Ukraine are more western leaning and typically more friendly to westerners. Odessa Oblast is heavily oriented toward a tourist economy and thus friendly to westerners, tempered slightly by the kind of big city attitude that prevails in Kyiv.

Ukraine is highly homogeneous, consisting predominantly of native Ukrainians and Russians. It is a free society in that there is also a small, but significant number of racial minorities. Open discrimination is not common, but does happen – there are extremist groups in Ukraine. Consequently, it is appropriate to advise that if you are a minority to be conscientious of the fact and avoid situations where you can become easy prey.

Russian, Ukrainian and English Languages

The first and most obvious adjustment to life in Ukraine is the obvious difference in language and alphabet. In western and central Ukraine, most people speak Ukrainian. In eastern and southern Ukraine, most speak Russian. Ukrainian and Russian both make use of the Cyrillic Alphabet with 33 letters including 9 vowels (with some minor variances), as opposed to the 26 letters with A, E, I, O, U and sometimes Y of the English Alphabet predominantly used by the west. The similarities between Ukrainian and Russian can be generally equated to the similarities (and differences) of say Italian and Spanish. Their proximity and overlapping use gives rise to an unofficial Russian-Ukrainian hybrid mixing words of both languages in the same sentence.

So then, there is also English. Almost everyone in Ukraine received exposure to English through classes in school. Lack of use, however, does not apply very well to retention. Most Ukrainians understand English better than they can speak it. Many can also speak English better they are willing to admit, but are overly fearful of making a mistake.

English in Ukraine is more common than one might expect. English is actively used in marketing and advertising. A lot of popular western music is equally popular in Ukraine. Back in their day The Beatles were helping teach English to Russians and Ukrainians through their songs and lyrics. Dean Martin remains oddly popular and just as likely to be heard as today’s most popular artists. English can also be heard under the Russian dubbing on western movies and television shows comprising a very large portion of Ukrainian television programming.

Learning Russian or Ukrainian is more difficult for someone in the west than it is from someone from Ukraine or Russia to learn English. While it is relatively simple to learn some basic words in Russian, the relative difficulty applies through case endings and gender specific suffixes such that one word may have a dozen or more variants. That makes forming sentences somewhat more difficult than in English. Once one learns the grammatical rules, it becomes much easier but it takes continuous, long-term study, practice and constant exposure.

Travelers expecting to stay long-term in Ukraine would do well to learn the Cyrillic Alphabet. Russian is a very phonetic language, if you can sound out the letters of a word, most who speak Russian will understand you. Sounding out words will show with surprising frequency that there are many words common between English and Russian. The letters may be different, but the sound is the same or similar.

Searching for an Apartment

In the west, we tend to be very particular in the process of selecting an apartment, but this does not translate well in Ukraine. Ukrainian landlords typically expect a “yes” or “no” within minutes or hours of showing an apartment. More than a day or two tests their patience. Either way, the first person with the money who wants their apartment is the one who will get it. Reserving an apartment is the equivalent of paying rent on it, and still most landlords shy away from indefinite decisions of this sort.

Trying to explain market dynamics to Ukrainian landlords is rarely productive and this matter is thoroughly pervasive in the majority of Ukrainian business. It’s necessary to consider that not so long ago, Ukraine went through a very difficult transition away from the Soviet economy. And it is going through another crisis now. Most Ukrainians would prefer $250 now over $500 a week from now.

What is on the market now is subject to immediate change without notice. As apartments cannot be reserved, it is without value to search for an apartment until there is “impending need” – which can be quantified as “I need an apartment within a week.” Two weeks or a month from now is far too abstract for the Ukrainian property market.

Will Landlords Negotiate?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. If you see an apartment you really like, but would like it for less, you can make an offer – but you should expect a negative response. There are few real leverage points beyond a long-term (1 year) lease. Many landlords upon seeing that you are a foreigner will immediately increase the price. For nice apartments, many landlords are extremely hesitant to permit young children (under 5 years old) or pets, in fear of possible damages; and if they rent to you will likely charge more on that basis.
As for the economy… it is distinctly possible that many landlords will become desperate. They may well lower prices, but the second the economy starts to improve, expect them to try increasing rates every which way they can.

Landlord Relations

In looking for an apartment, it is equally a matter of finding a good landlord. As may be mentioned elsewhere, it is distinctly possible to find otherwise good landlords in bad positions… that will impact you just as much as if they were a bad landlord from the get-go.

Sadly, in the present situation, even the best screening process may not help a whole lot. It is reasonably useful to attempt to build a favorable relationship with your landlord, by consistently paying on time, being friendly, and occasional small gifts (ranging from simple western souvenirs, to a box of chocolates, holiday gifts, etc.) and extending holiday courtesies to them. The more you become like a friend and family to them, the more likely they will try to keep you.

Another thing that has value is getting on good terms with your neighbors, and especially babushkas. That is worthy of an entire section unto itself. Two more issues deserve awareness. Most landlords who lease apartments do not report their earnings, as concerns taxes. This can create complexities as concerns OVIR
registrations, suffice that it becomes necessary to address these situations on a case by case basis when the time comes. Secondly, it is necessary to occasionally make sure the landlord is paying the respective bills for which they are obligated. Just because you are paying what you owe for electricity and so forth, does not necessarily mean they are – and if they are not, you may not know about it for several months, when suddenly your service is shut off.

Landlords and Lease Agreements

The lease agreement is your primary (and only) protection in Ukraine as it is everywhere else. It is not the best protection given the state of Ukrainian law, but far fewer problems develop when you have a written lease agreement. The problems almost always emerge when you trust Ukrainian landlords to honor a verbal agreement, or when you do not exercise due diligence in securing a new written lease agreement come renewal time. Without a written lease agreement, they can ask you to move out with virtually no notice or may increase your rent at will.

There are a few things to watch out for specifically. First, if you go to sign on an apartment in the understanding it will run you say $500 per month, and they suddenly say it is $550 a month – smile, say “No, thank you,” turn and start walking for the door. Continue out the door and do not look back even if they backtrack. Second, make certain that you are provided a written, signed, lease agreement. It is best to have an interpreter available to go over it with you in English. Make sure you know your landlord’s and your own responsibilities. If you want to extend your lease and your landlord agrees, make certain you
receive a new written, signed, lease agreement.

Your other elements of protection come via who you know and how you present yourself. Simply having an interpreter on your side helps keep everything on an even footing, that is even more the case when the interpreter appears to be a good friend of yours. Those most willing to take advantage of your position will not consider trying when it is clear someone is looking out for your best interests. Presenting yourself as a serious, responsible, friendly but firm person will also serve your interests.

Lease Agreements in English?

Not really. It is possible to have your lease agreement translated into English, however it will have no legal value. It is a simple thing to have your lease agreement translated for the sole sake of being able to understand it. This is most likely to take place after the actual signing of the agreement, unless you are willing to accept a handwritten translation. Each landlord may have their own version – sometimes standard and sometimes not.

In the case of OdessaFX, we can provide you a printed translation of a standard lease agreement, in which any variations are appended on the back in handwriting. We will also go over each point of the agreement with you to make sure you understand it.

Odessa and Ukraine Monthly Utilities

The following details typical rates of monthly utilities in Odessa.

Water: The monthly water bill is nominal – about 25 hryvnia or $3 – 5.00, and is paid to the landlord. It is recommended to test and to periodically continue testing your tap water before consumption. Old pipes (potentially using lead) and breaks in the line from disrepair or construction can make drinking tap water hazardous. In Odessa, most residential areas do have walking distance access (up to 4-5 blocks) to a purified water dispensary – clean, fresh and free. Alternatively, water is also sold in 5 and 10 liter bottles at most stores.

Gas: Gas may or may not be included in rent; but if not included it is still paid to the landlord. With few exceptions, apartments in Ukraine have gas kitchens. Some water heaters use gas, as well.

Electricity: Electricity is charged at approximately .244 hryvnia per kilowatt hour, but high volume users pay an additional surcharge. Electricity is charged separately from rent and collected by the landlord. Once per month, someone comes by to try to read the meter and will leave a small note on the door if you don’t answer. Just record the number on your meter on that note and post it outside the
door and next time they come by, they’ll pick it up. Don’t pay them however; just pay your landlord for use. It varies in winter and summer, but on average my electric bill comes out to about 100 hryvnia per month for two rooms and a kitchen.

Phone: Basic phone service is usually included in monthly rent and is covered by the
landlord. You are responsible for usage – whether exceeding the base in local calls, internet service or long-distance calls. Phone usage can be a big problem. Typically, you will be (at least you will want to be) using a cell phone for the majority of your calls. As a rule, most westerners here do not answer their regular phone line. Almost invariably the only people calling us on those lines are telemarketers or have the wrong number and don’t speak English. The real problem with the phone comes when using the line for Internet access, without using ISP call-back services. This can easily lead to $100 phone bills, in addition to
the $20 dial-up cards.

Cable: Cable services are always separate from rent and require you to make payments to the cable company. Cable service will vary based upon the package you want. My package includes about 60 channels; almost all are in Russian with no premium stations, for 35 hryvnia ($7.00) per month. Packages go up from there.

Satellite: Satellite television is less common than in the west, but is still available , with a variety of packages and price plans. Dish and installation is likely to run in the $400 range, with monthly services running up to $50. If not already installed in your apartment, it will be necessary to secure your landlord’s permission, and to understand that it will be at your cost. While that entitles you to take the equipment with you if you move; if you don’t it reverts to the property of the landlord.

Internet: If you use the Internet actively, you will most likely want a broadband
connection – it is cheaper, faster and usually more convenient. The first hurdle to getting a broadband Internet connection is to receive your landlord’s approval, unless a line is already installed. They usually agree as they see it as an improvement coming at your expense. The second hurdle is finding the service provider for your area. The two best services in Odessa are TeNet and Soborka.

The last hurdle is an average two week wait for a technician to come and install the line to your apartment. The line and hardware connection tends to run $80 – $100. Monthly service rates depend upon speed ranging from $15 to $40 per month. Quality of service by Ukrainian ISP’s is improving; Tenet has improved considerably over the past year even to the point of increasing speed while cutting monthly subscription costs. “Gratuities” can sometimes expedite the installation process.

Service Outages

One thing to be aware of is that water and electric utilities, sometimes Internet service, are subject to interruption from time to time. It is useful to make inquiries prior to securing an apartment regarding their length and frequency as utility outages can vary considerably. In the center of Odessa, for example, during the summer power outages occur almost daily. I’ve lived in three apartments over two years just outside the center – on average, I see power outages lasting 15 minutes to 2 hours about once every two weeks. Water outages tend to be longer and more frequent, 2 – 6 hours several times a week, but usually cutting off late at night. Outages have lasted for upwards of 2 days, rare – but it does happen.

One other note is that owing either to the quality of Ukrainian light bulbs, old lines and power surges – it is necessary to maintain a stock of extra light bulbs. Moreover, I strongly advise against buying higher quality light bulbs – because they blow too.

Clothes

Western name brand clothes in Ukraine are typically more expensive than the west. Regional and domestically produced clothes, even custom-made clothes, are significantly less expensive than in the west. There are plenty of clothes stores in Odessa, but the closer they are to the center of town, the more you can expect to pay. Conversely, a trip to the Seven Kilometer Market can provide some very nice bargains. Generally, socks, underwear, ties, hats and casual wear shirts and pants are readily available. Professional wear is also available, if in less variety than that typical to western stores.

It is important, however, that if you are a large person to bring additional clothes with you – especially semi-formal and formal wear. This applies to almost all types of clothes such that while they may be available, they are not easy to find. While shoe stores tend to accommodate people with long feet, they rarely provide for wide feet (wide/extra wide). Western style boots are also very rare, and if available more expensive than you would pay in the west. While steel-toed work boots can be found, size ranges are also limited.

Your alternatives when in country and needing, but not having, appropriate clothes include:

1. Online mail order – anticipate expedited deliveries to require about 3 weeks.
2. Custom made – there are many high-quality tailors in Ukraine, though they may be
limited when it comes to high-quality materials unless you are willing to pay more.
3. Special orders – with some stores, if you have Russian-speaking assistance, you can
make special orders, though deliveries will vary considerably by establishment.

Clothes Cleaning

Living in Ukraine will necessitate some adaptations, as should be clear already. Most apartments will include a clothes washer, but virtually none include a clothes dryer. Dryers are regarded as completely unnecessary – you can hang your clothes out and they will dry for free! This requires being methodical in keeping up with your dirty laundry.

There are no coin operated Laundromats in Odessa. There is no place where you can go to take your clothes and sit while you put them through the washer and dryer. You have only three or four options. One is to do it yourself. Second, is to take it to local cleaners where quality of service and turn-around time warrants testing before putting your suits through.

The third option is to make use of the very few, more expensive professional cleaners.

Fourth, it is likely that you can find a Babushka who will take care of your clothes for a very reasonable price. The only concern you may have there is a 48-72 hour turnaround time.

Food Shopping

As with everything else, it is likely you will need to make adjustments in your grocery shopping. It is customary for most Ukrainians to do their grocery shopping about once every two or three days. In the United States, we have excellent logistics and storage systems that are required by the FDA to meet a variety of regulations. Here, that’s not necessarily the case – we don’t really know how long something has been sitting on the shelf. While major grocery stores are good at rotating perishables, things like bread will mold quickly regardless of what you do. Meat needs to be either immediately frozen or cooked within 2 days of purchase.

The potential for getting a sick stomach or a full case of food-poisoning is very real. It is always a good idea to cook your meat for a little longer than you would in the west. In the course of over three years, I’ve had food poisoning twice and have become slightly sick to my stomach perhaps six times. It is not an overly frequent experience, but food poisoning is a miserable experience.

Be Kind to the Babushkas

If there is one thing to say about being social in Ukraine, it is to be kind to the Babushkas. What, or rather, who is a Babushka? A Babushka is the Ukrainian term for an older woman, a grandmother – the term originates with the scarves they wear in what seems to be an ages old tradition.

Showing respect for the elderly should be a given. Actually being friendly in simple ways helps bridge social gaps and the language barrier. As a foreigner, this is important – especially in the first days of your arrival. There are really only two types of reputation for us in Ukraine – good and bad. Your immediate Ukrainian neighbors will be either much friendlier than in the United States or much less friendly. There is a very good chance that your next door neighbor will be a Babushka. A lot of families live and stay together.

The language barrier can make interaction somewhat awkward. It’s necessary to get beyond it. “Dobre Dehn, Ya ploha govaru po-Ruski; Ya – (Your Name).” That’s a good start for when you entering or leaving your apartment and someone else is entering or leaving their apartment. What that means, is “Good Day, I speak Russian poorly; my name is Mark.” In that first ten seconds, you’ve shown that you are friendly, that you are a foreigner, that you are attempting to learn at least some Russian, and that you are interested in good relations with your neighbors.

The other really important thing is to not dress like a bum. It is best to be clean shaven; but if you do have a beard or mustache – that can be overcome fairly easily. It is a little strange to them at first as usually only older men, the wealthy and clergy tend to keep a beard or mustache.

Other things that will demonstrate you are a good neighbor is to give Babushkas a flower on Ukrainian holidays – especially Woman’s Day (March 8). If you see them coming back from the store, offer to help carry their groceries. If they get water from a dispensary, offer to bring them 5 liters every few days – especially during poor weather. To really impress them, you might try cooking an American or western-style dish and sharing some with them. They will certainly reciprocate.

Being a good neighbor will get back to your landlord for one thing. That can be the difference between their wanting to keep you, wanting you to move out at renewal time, or raising your rent.